with ten waggons of eight mules each, exclusive
of spare animals, and some dozen saddle-horses,
which made a very pleasant and safe party for
traversing many hundreds of miles of prairie,
and sufficiently strong to resist any red-skinned
gentlemen who might wish to molest us, or lay
violent hands on government property.

Of our travels over that vast expanse of
territory, of the numerous and fragrant wild
flowers carpeting our route for miles; of floating
waggons over streams; of "break downs;"
buffalo hunts on a small scale; of Indians met
with on our line of travel; night alarms; scarcity
of wood and water; deaths and burials in our
party, &c.; of all these things I cannot now
speak, but return to the "Saints," and of
observations made among them, during a brief but
instructive sojourn of two short weeks in the
Great Salt Lake Valley of Utah.

Clouds, and long lines of dust, daily ascending
over the wide expanse of ocean-like prairie, told
us that rapid as had been our journey, we had
scarcely overtaken the vast spring train, which,
a few miles distant, seemed like a black and
endless snake crawling through the grass. It
was our grand object to get into Salt Lake City
sooner than any of the advance-guard of the
other trains, and secure accommodations; or
otherwise we should have to lodge in the streets,
or be compelled to camp out. We knew that
their passage through the mountains would be
long and tedious, and therefore whipped up our
mules, and travelled far into the night so as to
gain a fair start of every one.

We had not proceeded far before we met a
large deputation of saints from the city, who, with
bands of music and waggons of fresh provisions,
had already come more than fifty miles to meet
the coming train. This was a usual practice with
them. Without giving any notice whatever,
parties of the saints usually went forth to meet
any large body of proselytes advancing; and,
staying in the mountain passes, screened from
view until the trains approached, suddenly
opened heavy batteries of brass bands upon
them, which made hills and mountains re-echo
again with their boisterous sounds. To weary
travellers, many indeed fresh from a toilsome
journey of several thousand miles, the distant
sounds of music fell upon the ear like a welcome
from angelic spirits, while the sudden appearance
of men on horseback with flags and banners
flying in the wind, sent a thrill of joy into every
heart.

These deputations had many objects in view.
They first ascertained what the train contained,
and opened negotiations for purchasing goods,
without informing sellers of the latest market
prices, or possible demand: they could also
scrutinise all new comers, and make engagements for
labourers or artisans; dispose of clothing, fresh
provisions, or whatever else their waggons
contained, and be the first in the market to invite
settlement in their various districts, and, to
dispose of lands. But many of these apparently
disinterested saints had other objects in view;
if they discovered prepossessing females
unencumbered, they would immediately proffer
homes to them, and thus enrich or enlarge their
harems to any extent, with the cream of the
market.

When we arrived near the city the train
was halted and camped some two miles out;
chiefs of the party, with myself, trotting into
town. It was like all American Western-
border cities, and looked as if it might have
sprung up in a single night, like a mushroom.
The streets were wide, and crossed each other
at right angles. Except some few buildings of
brick and stone, the majority were of wood, and
all betokened industry and comfort.

"I'm going to introduce you to Elder Flipper,"
said my friend. "He keeps some sort of
hotel. I would advise you to ask but few
questions, to govern your eyes and ears; not
to laugh at, or find fault with, anything which
may appear strange, and I guess you'll find
comfortable lodgings there."

"There it is," said my friend, as we rode up
to a square wooden building of two stories,
standing in a wilderness of uncultivated garden
on a dozen wooden props, with a verandah on
three sides, with green blinds. I read on a poorly
painted signboard, "Promised Land Hotel, by
H. Flipper. Wines, Liquors, and Cigars." We
tied up our horses and walked in. After a few
moments of conversation with Flipper, my friend
left me alone, and mine host began boring me
with questions about things "in the States." I
gave him two newspapers, and, mounting his
spectacles, he was soon lost in their perusal.
H. Flipper, Esq., "Elder of the Mormon Church,
proprietor of the 'Promised Land,' and Justice
of the Peace," was a short, thick-set, flabby-
looking person, five feet five in height, given to
obesity, and about forty-five years of age. His
face was round, pock-marked, and large—the
mouth particularly so. With little hair on his
head, and face clean shaven (once a week), he
sat rocking himself in the arm-chair, scratching
his head, and squirting tobacco-juice into the
empty fireplace, grunting over the news with
great content and complacency. His body was
large, and legs so small, that sitting curled up
in the chair, he looked like a large turtle turned
on end. It seemed impossible to me that any
woman in creation could have seen anything in
him to admire; yet, if rumour spoke truly,
he was the happy ruler of a household
consisting of three children, and not less than
five wives. The "hotel" seemed a wilderness
of scantily-furnished rooms; no apartment could
boast of more furniture than a wooden
bedstead, indifferent bedding, one chair, a table,
wash-bowl, and towel; and although the
passages and staircase were clean, the close rooms
smelt damp and mouldy, as if the old establishment
had seldom received a thorough cleansing.
"Here, Nina!" shouted Flipper. "Show this
gentleman to—to No. 10; it is near my own
apartments, and as you are a little deaf, it will
suit exactly."

A greasy-looking German girl appeared at the
summons, and meekly said: "Vy not de udder