that day, as an early start would be requisite on
the morrow. We therefore rode out of the dell
for about a mile to the north-west, following a
path enclosed between stone walls, where we
left our horses and walked a short distance to
the oak. Beneath the boughs sat a party of
sullen Mohammedans, and amongst them a
Mograibbin, or dervish from Morocco, who
seemed to be the guardian of the sacred tree.
They did not attempt to interfere with us
so long as we were all together; but when
in a few minutes my four friends returned to
the horses, leaving me engaged in gathering
some acorns, my right arm was suddenly
seized from behind py the infuriate black,
who with a pickaxe raised aloft was preparing
to strike me down. The rage of the fanatic
seemed to know no bounds; he could not
endure that an infidel should thus desecrate the
tree under which the great patriarch, El Khulil,
had pitched his tent. I had not an instant to
lose, but wrenching myself from the man's
grasp, I drew my revolver. This weapon is
held in peculiar awe by all the uncivilised
classes in Palestine, and its close proximity to
the ruffians (for my first assailant was supported
by his companions) caused them to fall back
and stand at bay. The speedy return of my
friends put an end to the adventure.

The morning of April 7th at Hebron will long
be remembered by us. As we looked out of our
tent, the sun was rising over the hills to the
east, lighting up the time-honoured walls of the
Haram. Clustered around this, lay the little
white-domed houses of the city, and from its
gates were being driven forth herds of goats, to
browse on the very hills where once fed the
flocks of the patriarchs. Everything reminded
us of those days, indeed we seemed to be living
in them. The dew was still glistening on the
grass, when, mounted on a good Syrian mare
followed by her foal, came the grey-haired
Bedouin Sheikh, our guide, a long Arab lance in
his hand, and a stout Damascus broad-sword by
his side. His dress was very picturesque—he
wore a long garment of striped silk, surmounted
by a black and white camel's hair abba; on his
head, the usual silk Kefîyeh, which with red
boots completed the costume. The horse also
was an interesting study: its saddle was peaked
before and behind, an arrangement which causes
the unpractised rider to imagine himself seated
between the prongs of a pitchfork; the stirrups
were remarkably short, the foot resting in a sort
of scale pan; while the bit was calculated, without
careful use, to amputate the horse's lower
jaw—a touch of the rein being sufficient to
bring the animal on its haunches. The shoes
were simple sheets of iron. Abu Dahûk was
accompanied by Sheikh Hamsa and five Jehâlîn
warriors. His professions of friendship were
unbounded—he kissed our hands, and raised
them to his forehead, displaying, besides, every
token of good will. Our dragoman and he
embraced in true Oriental fashion. When the
introductions were complete, we invited him
to smoke, and drink coffee. It was pleasing,
meantime, to see the respect in which he was
held by the Arabs around, who were eager to tell
us of his large flocks and possessions.

We were soon in the saddle and on our way
southward along the path which leads over the
hills of Carmel, where Abigail met David as he
went up to take vengeance on the churlish
Nabal. There is scarcely a rougher road in
Palestine; the horses had literally to scramble
over the rocks, and the baggage was with
difficulty kept on the mules. Till about mid-day we
continued to ascend; and when an hour later
we halted to rest and refresh ourselves, we must,
I think, have reached nearly the loftiest part of
the Judæan wilderness, some four thousand five
hundred feet above the level of the Dead Sea.

While at luncheon, we were entertained by
the arrival of a caravan from Petra, which
stopped for the camels to browse on the grass
growing luxuriantly for a short distance around.
To procure food for the beasts was not the
only object of this delay on the part of the
Arabs; they had also an eye to their own
refreshment upon the remnants of our luncheon.
As soon as we had finished, they arranged
themselves for the repast according to desert fashion.
Bending their legs beneath them in a form which
none but practised limbs could assume, they
squatted in a circle, and, being joined by the
two Sheikhs of our party, commenced the most
scrupulously just division of the food, which it
is needless to say was devoured without the
assistance of knives and forks. The meal was no
sooner over than the caravan prepared to move
on its way. Each man sprang upon the back of
his camel as it lay meekly on the ground, and
the animal, well knowing that its time for rest
had ended, in an instant raised itself on its hind-
legs with a jerk which would inevitably have
hurled an inexperienced rider some yards over
its head: another plunge, calculated to produce
like evil results, only in an opposite direction,
and the beast was on its fore-legs also, ready to
continue the march. We were not long in
following the example of the Arabs.

The path now led down some deep ravines.
The rocks ceased, and the scenery reminded us
of English downs. Here and there were large
flocks of storks, affording capital practice for
our revolvers. It was about four o'clock in the
afternoon when we espied ahead the well-known
black tents of a Bedouin encampment. Putting
spurs to our horses, we galloped into a large
open square bounded by the habitations of the
Jehâlîn, where, to our unspeakable dismay, the
muleteers, who had been sent forward, as usual,
with the baggage, were pitching the tents. The
space was filled with screaming children and
yelping dogs; while, aroused by this unwonted
uproar, lazy Arabs issued from their respective
tents to gaze in sleepy wonderment at the
strange arrival. With a few exceptions, their
faces wore an expression of sullen stupidity,
brightened by an occasional look of extreme
maliciousness. These looks would doubtless have
led to unpleasant results, if it had not been for
the presence of Abu Dahûk, who sat smoking,