bands of the robber Gallas pervaded the whole
country, and robbed our convoys whenever
they saw an opportunity; sometimes openly
attacking when the baggage guards were weak;
but generally making a sudden rush, plundering
the first mule or two and killing the muleteer
if he attempted resistance. Many lives were lost
in this manner, the Gallas suffering more than our
men, for when our men were reasonably on their
guard, they were always able to repel the robbers,
often with considerable loss. Below Antalo,
however, it was considered that the risk was
small; a soldier of the Royal Engineers and a
mule-driver had been killed, only a day or two
before my journey; these were exceptional
instances. The natives might and would
plunder if they had an opportunity, and they
might occasionally murder; but we had no fear
of their attacking a numerous party, while the
robber Gallas were in our rear, and we were
leaving their country every day. The Gallas
inhabit the mountain slopes to the east of
Abyssinia proper, and the flat country between them
and the sea; and it is only near Lake Ashangi
that they occupy the plateau land upon the
mountain tops. So it came to pass that we
took no precaution for the defence of our
baggage, frequently allowing it to go on alone,
and merely directing the drivers and servants
to keep together, and on no account to straggle.
Generally, however, one or two of us kept near,
simply because experience had taught us that the
mules arrived very much earlier at their destination
if we were there to urge them, or rather to
urge the servants, on. It happened, thus, one
morning, that I started alone with the baggage,
my companions having some inquiries to make at
the station which would detain them two or
three hours. The baggage animals were nine in
number, and we had five or six servants. With
these I rode on for some hours across the plain,
when I came upon a party of about twenty
natives, who were sitting in a slight depression of
the ground. Some seven or eight of them were
men, the rest women and girls. They had with
them three or four of the little donkeys of the
country.

As we approached, the natives rose, and came
up to me, exclaiming Gallas! Gallas! and
pointing to the country around. They were evidently
endeavouring to explain to me that there were
Gallas in the neighbourhood. Now, I felt certain
that there could be no Gallas within fifty miles,
and consequently shook my head in sign of
unbelief, and said, "Mafeesh Gallas." (Mafeesh,
is I believe an Arabic word, but it is used
throughout Abyssinia, and is a general
negative; nowhere, none, not, no, are all
expressable by Mafeesh. The natives for instance when
they heard of Theodore's death, came up to us
and drew their hands across their throats,
crying in an interrogative tone, "Têdres Mafeesh?"
If you inquired for any article which the natives
did not possess the answer was " Mafeesh.")
The natives were clamorous in the reiteration
of their assertion: " Gallas! Gallas! Gallas!"
They then by signs demanded if they might
accompany me. To this I assented, although
perfectly incredulous about the Gallas. Had I
had the smallest, belief in the existence of a
band of these robbers in the neighbourhood, I
should have halted until my friends came up,
and could then have proceeded in safety, four
Englishmen armed with revolvers being a match
for any number of Gallas. Having no belief
whatever in the matter I rode on.

At the end of half a mile, one of the natives
again came up to my side, and pointing to a
ruined village a little ahead, and sixty or
seventy yards from the road side, again said
very significantly "Gallas!" I rode on, but
was checked suddenly by the apparition of some
forty or fifty armed natives emerging from the
village, and moving across to intercept our
march. They were Gallas indeed; there was
no mistaking their white robes, which are whiter
than and worn in a different fashion from those
of the Abyssinians. I confess that I was horribly
alarmed. Two or three of us might have made
a successful stand, but it was hopeless for one
man to do so, if it came to fighting, especially
as several of them were armed with guns, and
all the rest with shield and spear.

It was useless to think of flight, or I should
have given the order instantly. The Gallas
would have overtaken the heavily laden mules
before they could have gone fifty yards.

There was nothing for it but to put a bold
face on the matter. Three of my servants were
armed: two with spears, and the third with a
sword. They were all Goa men, who, however
courageous they might be, would have been
utterly useless in a fight, for they are
physically one of the weakest races even in India.
I told them to keep close by me, and on no
account to use their weapons unless I fired,
for we must be overpowered if it came to
blows. I then drew my revolver and rode up
to the head of the baggage. I had still some
hopes that they would not attack when they
saw an officer with the baggage, and
therefore, when I got close to them, I waved my
hand for them to let us pass. Their only
answer was to draw closer across the road,
and I now presented my pistol and repeated my
sign to them to clear the way. Their reply
was a rush upon the mules; the chief himself,
a worthy in a brocaded dress and armed with
a rifle, seizing the head of the leading animal.
Another minute, and every load would have
been off; the only hope lay in Bounce, so
throwing my reins to a groom, and jumping
from my horse, I had the astonished chief
tight by the throat before he knew what I
was about. For a moment he struggled to free
himself, but a native is a child in the hands of
an Englishman of average strength, especially
when the Englishman knows that his life is at
stake. A severe shake and the exhibition of
my revolver to his head soon quieted him. In
the mean time the other Gallas rushed up, but
the muzzle of my pistol kept them from coming
to close quarters. Naturally I am a peaceful
man, but upon the same principle that a sheep