up to Canton is called the Pearl River. Its
banks are lined with extensive rice plantations,
amidst which bananas and other trees
are planted, in rows; the intervening spaces
forming pleasant avenues. But these trees
are intended less for ornament than for use.
Rice requires a very damp soil, and the trees
are planted with the view of giving the earth
a certain degree of consistency, and preventing
the rice from being washed away by the
copious irrigation which the soil demands.
Neat little Chinese country houses, with
pointed and notched roofs, and walls
profusely adorned with coloured tiles and clay
ornaments, are seen nestling amid groups of
shady trees; and pagodas—or tas, as they
are called by the Chinese—varying from three
to nine stories in height, stand on hills in
the vicinity of the villages, and from a vast
distance attract the eye of the traveller. The
river is defended along its banks by numerous
fortified posts.

Some miles below Canton, we passed a
succession of poor-looking villages, for the most
part consisting of huts built on piles driven
into the bed of the river; numerous boats
floating in the stream, also served as habitations
for their owners.

As we drew near to Canton, the aspect of
the river became more and more animated,
and the number of boats of every description
augmented. There were vessels of the most
extraordinary forms. Some of the junks, two
tiers above water at the stern, looked like
houses with high balconied windows. Many
of these junks are exceedingly large, and they
are not unfrequently of a thousand tons
burthen. I saw several Chinese ships of war,
of a flat and long build, and carrying from
twenty to thirty guns. The mandarins'
boats, with doors and windows painted on the
outside, are like neat little houses decorated
with silk flags. But, above all, I admired the
flower-boats, with their upper galleries adorned
with garlands, arabesques, and other
ornaments. The windows and doors of these
flower-boats are somewhat in the gothic
style; the doors lead to the interior of the
boat, which consists of one large saloon,
and a few small cabins. Mirrors and silken
tapestry adorn the walls; crystal lustres, and
coloured paper lamps, between which are
suspended pretty little baskets filled with
fresh flowers, serve to complete a picture
which, to European eyes, presents an almost
magical effect.

These flower-boats, which constantly lie at
anchor in the river, are places of entertainment
to which the Chinese resort both by
day and by night. The amusements consist
of dramatic performances, jugglery, and
dancing. No females, save those of a depraved
class, visit these places. Europeans are not
prohibited from entering them; yet, the
present hostile state of feeling on the part of
the Chinese, exposes them to the chance of
insult, and, possibly, of ill-treatment.

The bustle and movement on the river is
still further augmented by thousands of very
small boats, called shampans; some lying at
anchor, and others floating about among the
large vessels and flower-boats. Meanwhile,
fishermen are seen in all directions casting
their nets; and children and grown persons
are bathing and swimming. It is frightful to see
the young children in the small shampans.
They are suffered to play and swing on the
edges of these boats, and they are every
moment in danger of falling overboard. Careful
parents adopt the precaution of fastening
hollow gourds, or bladders inflated with air,
on the shoulders of very young children, to
save them from immediately sinking when
they fall into the water—an accident of
continual occurrence.

In short, the varied objects and strange
manners; the active life and movement
observable on the Pearl River, altogether
make up a picture of the singularity of
which description can convey no adequate
idea.

During the last few years, European women
have been permitted to enter the factories of
Canton, and even to reside within them.
I consequently left the junk without hesitation;
but having landed, I had to find my
way to the residence of Mr. Agassiz, to whom
I had been directed, and as I could not speak
a word of Chinese, I was obliged to have
recourse to signs. I made the captain of the
junk understand that I had no money with
me, and that he must conduct me to the
factory, where I would pay him. He readily
understood me, and escorted me to the place
I wished to go to. When Mr. Agassiz saw
me, and learned how I had travelled,—above
all, when he was informed that I had walked
from the junk to his house, he was very much
astonished that I had escaped so fortunately.
I now, for the first time, became aware that
it is very hazardous for a woman to walk
through the streets of Canton unaccompanied
by any one but a Chinese guide. It is quite
an unheard-of thing: and I was assured that
I might consider myself very lucky in having
escaped being insulted, and even stoned, by
the people. On my way from the junk to the
factory, I observed the people staring at me,
calling after me; and, by degrees, they ran out
of the shops and houses, thus forming a crowd
which followed us. However, I walked on
fearlessly; and possibly my safety was due to
the fact of my having manifested no symptoms
of alarm. I was not disposed to stay very
long in Canton; for since the last war between
the English and the Chinese, the place has
become more than ever insecure to Europeans.
To European women especially, a strong
dislike is manifested; because, according to a
Chinese prophesy, the Celestial Empire will
one day or other be conquered by a woman.
The plan I had laid down was to direct my
course to the north of China, to the port of
Tschang-hai, where I was assured I might,