teaspoonful at a time, a capital tonic for an
invalid travelling. The less you eat without
positive annoyance to yourself, the better and
the pleasanter will be your journey. Too
much of a tough beefsteak will stop a traveller
in Russia altogether. The poorest traveller
should never forget that he will find it cheaper
to buy what he wants to eat on the road than
to take it with him.
The best travelling dress for a lady is blue
or black cloth or merino, a grey shawl, and
black bonnet and gloves. In summer she may
venture upon thinner clothes, but had better,
as far as possible, keep to grey, black, and
brown as the best colours on a long journey.
The dress should be as close fitting as
possible, yet perfectly easy. Tight lacing has
spoiled many a pleasant tour. Flounces,
hanging sleeves, lace, fringe will be found
very troublesome. A little morocco leather
companion full of little pockets, &c., and large
enough to hold a change of gloves and pocket
handkerchiefs, and, above all things, a bottle
of eau de Cologne, is far better than any
worked bag or other contrivance. As for the
eau de Cologne, it is next to a necessity for a
lady; as, beside its refreshing qualities on a
hot day, in a close railway carriage, it is the
best thing possible to purify the bad water
often given for purposes of ablution at inns.
A lady will find it almost impossible to clean
her teeth in the Hamburg water without a
frank dash of eau de Cologne in it, and,
considering a very fair quality maybe bought all
over Germany at sixpence a bottle, it is by no
means an. expensive luxury. Boots are better
than shoes for travelling, and the prettiest
foot and ancle should condescend to submit to
them; and let them be by all means dark-
coloured. Goths of ladies' shoemakers will
sometimes persuade the wives of our bosom
to put on white or lilac-topped boots as good
for the dust, and certainly they are: for the
dust once on is more difficult to be got rid of
than was a Scotchman a century ago who had
crossed the Tweed. A brown or black parasol,
with a border instead of a fringe, is best; and
it should have a joint in the stick for carriages.
Ladies who are not in time to start by the
train they have fixed upon, should be threatened
with the penalties of the second class,
and for the seventy times seventh offence they
should actually be once shown into it just to
frighten them, their obedient cavalier taking
care to have first-class tickets in his glove, for
second-class carriages are not fit for ladies,
and those who cannot travel first class had
better stay at home as much as possible. On
the continent they are full of men smoking
and eating sausages, and in England you may
chance to be shut up with a maniac or a felon.
At all events chairmen and directors, almost
as wise as the historical sages of Gotham, seem
to think that ladies ought not to travel in
the second class, and therefore we are bound,
will we, nill we, to agree with them. Children
should hardly be taken on a pleasure tour;
they are a trouble to themselves and everybody
else.
A carriage has now become almost a useless
incumbrance; nevertheless, where one is
still necessary, it is a silly increase of expense
to drag one from England to the place where
it is wanted. The best foreign carriages are
to be bought at Frankfort and Vienna, but
good travelling carriages may be hired
anywhere. As a rule, four people can travel
cheaper in their own carriage than by
diligence, and much more pleasantly. A pound
a day for each person, or three pounds a day
for four persons of one family, is a fair
travelling allowance. A hundred pounds a
month should pay all expenses, with economy.
A single man, however, travelling alone,
should never have a carriage, let his rank be
what it may, as he will find it cruelly in his
way. Five hundred a year should carry a
single man pleasantly all over the world. If he
takes a servant, his expenses will be, perhaps,
seven hundred. A gentleman may live in
any continental town, and at the first hotels
for a pound a day—everything included—even
pleasure. It is quite as well, however, to
carry a respectable letter of credit, as it puts
you on good terms with your banker, often an
important person; and in St. Petersburg,
Vienna, and many other places, you will have
to give a reference to him as to your means of
living, or quit the city in three days.
An unceasing source of bother to travellers
is the passport system, and any one whose
appearance is not quite satisfactory will be
summoned to the police-office, perhaps half-a-
dozen times during his residence in a foreign
city. If this occurs he must take especial
care to have a sensible interpreter with him,
or, if possible, persuade some person known
to be favourable to the Government to accompany
him; and, above all things, never lose
his temper, as the least hasty word will be
seized upon as an excuse for his summary
expulsion. A readiness to explain his views
and objects, and marked civility to the
interrogating official, are his best and surest
weapons: but there is, also, one more.
An Englishman living in Russia was
perpetually annoyed for some time by being
summoned to the police-office. At last, after
having answered the same questions for
the ninth or tenth time, he mildly requested
his friend at the police (for a sort of intimacy
had sprung up between them from frequent
interviews), to inform him, as a pure matter
of politeness, why he was harassed so often
on the same subject. Thus gently pressed,
the official raised his eyebrows; and, as if by
accident, drew open a drawer which contained
a few rubles, and shut it to with a musical
jingle. The sound seemed to put him into a
cheerful temper, and he gave a sort of smiling
explanation quite refreshing from its long
words and total want of meaning. The
Briton, however, understood him; and after
they had shaken hands .at parting, the man in
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