the full fruit of his letters of introduction,
and of these it is impossible to carry too
many. After which he may take wing, and
use the rest of his time in visiting the chief
objects of interest in the provinces.
Generally he will find three days quite sufficient
to give to the most celebrated places; though
Seville, Cordova, Cologne, Antwerp, Amsterdam,
and more towns than I can call to mind,
are fairly entitled to as much time as he has
to spare. This must, however, of course be
regulated in a great measure by his own
tastes. While in the capital, also, he should
endeavour to obtain as many letters of
introduction as possible to persons of influence
residing in other parts of the country. They
will be useful to him in innumerable cases;
and he should never allow a habit of laziness
and indifference—apt enough to creep over
travellers—to prevent his making use of
them. He will thus learn (in a month) more
of the real state of politics and manners in a
country than he could otherwise get at in a
year. It will be well for him too, now and
then to take a pedestrian ramble for a couple
of days, and throw himself upon his own
resources in unfrequented places. I think well,
also, of Lord Bacon's advice that, while in the
capital he should change his lodgings from one
quarter of the town to another.

As for companions and acquaintances, the
more he has the better. Let him be very
cautious, however, never to be drawn into
conversations on politics, for his very valet is
almost certain to be a spy; and at least one
out of every half dozen people he meets has a
sharper eye on him than he thinks. If, therefore,
he wish to get at facts, let him keep
his opinions to himself, whatever they may
be. He must not forget, either, that he will
be often wilfully misled—sometimes by dunces,
and sometimes by persons interested in
inoculating him with their own views; for, it is
generally thought that an Englishman travelling,
is making notes for a book, to be published
when he gets home. Perhaps the safest
companions he can have, after the gentlemen of
his own embassy, are officers in the army
and navy; or, as these are often dull fellows
enough, let him look out for some pleasant
old librarian or keeper of a museum. Their
acquaintance is easily made; and from them
a fund of information may be often obtained,
which is very well worth having. Englishmen
long established in any foreign country are
generally full of prejudices against it, and all
they say should be received with a good deal of
doubt and a resolution to judge for one's self.

I said something about the expenses of
travelling, in a former paper; let me now
return to the subject. A friend of mine, a
young gentleman in a very good position in
life, left Paris last May, and returned to it
last September. During this time he travelled
over the greater part of Europe and the
East, going even to Palestine. He had
indeed, no servant; but he took first-class
places on all railroads, and a seat in the
coupés or best parts of diligences (called,
pleasantly, eilwagen, in Germany, because
they go so slowly), and he halted always at the
best hotels. He was a quiet, modest fellow,
however, and did not think it worth while to
get a headache by drinking bad champagne at
dinner, because it is expensive. I dare say
he did not scold the waiters either, and so
have to pay for his lordly airs; neither
could he have bought a great quantity of
useless things; and it is probable that he
went to the stalls of theatres instead of
taking a private box, thus seeing better and
not paying so much.  When my friend got
home, he found that in precisely four months
he had spent, purchases included, the sum ol
exactly three thousand francs, or one hundred
and twenty pounds sterling.

A trip up and down the Rhine (keeping
clear of Hamburg; it is not on the road, and I
advise nobody to go there), may be done very
jollily for twenty pounds; a party of three or
four may perhaps do it for less, if they cut
close, and would not have wax candles to go
to bed by, in spite of the frantic rush of the
waiters to light them. A party of young
college men meeting at Bonn, in 1848,
travelled subsequently over Switzerland on
foot, for fifteen pounds a head; but then
they were Germans, and I know one of that
enthusiastic nation, son of one of the first scholars
in Europe, who came from Bremen to London
with just three pounds in his pocket, and stayed
in England exactly one month upon it, working
his passage out and home before the mast.
He says he found it very good fun, and I
dare say he did; I am sure I should be
proud of such a feat, and so would any spirited
lad who wished to see the world. I must
confess, however, that his hands were not
very much like those of a writing-master at
a ladies' school afterwards, and that when
he called at my lodgings in London, he was
supposed by the servant to be a smuggler.
It is a frolic, too, that won't do for any man
much under twelve stone, however
light-hearted.

An agreeable ramble, for a week, over the
lakes of Cumberland, need not cost more
than ten pounds; and you may go through
most of the scenery of Scott's novels for an
additional fifteen. In 1847, I went from
Edinburgh to the Trossacks, with a party of
three others; we were three days absent,
returning by Glasgow, and spent just three
pounds ten shillings a head. I do not recommend
any one who has really a taste for
beautiful scenery to go abroad for it until he
has seen Grasmere and Windermere, Loch
Katrine and Loch Lomond, and " Stirling's
tower and town." And as for the Lakes of
Killarney in Ireland, he really will find
nothing so lovely, the whole world over. I
think that the river from Cove to Cork is
incomparably more beautiful than the boasted
scenery between Rouen and Havre, and I