to Hamburgh," I replied; and then we all
struck up an amatory chorus of the "Fare
thee well, love" species, that fitted properly
with our position.

Continuing upon our way we found our
lame companion smoking a pipe comfortably
outside the village inn at Warnow. His cart
was resting there for bait to man and horse.
We baited also and discussed black bread-
and-butter, and Berlin white beer, till the
cart carried away our moustachioed friend,
never again, perhaps, to meet us in this
world, and not likely to be recognised by his
moustachios in the other.

My chalky comrade, who was also very
lame, lay on the ground in a desperate
condition before the day was over, and it was
with some difficulty that I brought him safe
by nightfall into Wusterhausen. He had
become also mysterious, and evidently inquisitive
as to the state of my finances, exhibiting
on his own part mysterious glimpses of a
brass medal wrapped up in fine wool, which
he wished me to look upon as a double ducat.
When we got to the inn-door, my friend
made a hurried proposition very nervously,
which made his purpose clear. There were
sixty English miles of road between us and
Berlin; he was knocked up, and a fast coach,
or rumbling omnibus, accommodating six
insides, would start for Berlin in the morning.
He thought he could bargain with the coachman
to take us to Berlin for a dollar—three
shillings—a-piece, if I did not mind advancing
his fare, because he did not want to change
the double ducat until he got home. I put
no difficulty in his way, for he was a good
fellow, and moreover would be well able to
help me in return, by telling me the addresses
of some people I depended upon finding in
Berlin. He proceeded, therefore, into the
agonies of bargaining, and was not
disappointed in his expectation. At the price of a
dollar a-piece we were packed next morning
in a frowsy vehicle, tainted with much
tobacco smoke, to which he came with his
swollen feet pressed only half-way down into
the legs of his best Wellingtons. The ride
was long and dull, for there was little prospect
to be caught through the small, dirty
window, and the air tasted like German
tinder. From a cottage villa on the roadside,
a German student added himself to the
three passengers that started from Wusterhausen.
He came to us with a pipe in his
mouth, unwashed, and hurriedly swaddled in
a morning gown, carelessly tied with a cord
about the middle. After a few miles travelling
the vehicle was full, and remained full—
until we at last reached Berlin.

There I found no work, and wandered
listlessly through the museums and picture-
galleries, for a troubled mind is a poor critic
in works of art. So I squeezed myself into
the Police Court, meaning to leave Berlin, and
had the distinction of being beckoned before
my turn out of the reeking mass of applicants
for passports, because my clothes had a
respectable appearance, and I wore a showy
pin in my cravat.

CHIPS.

CLEAN WATER AND DIRTY WATER.

THE steep town of Barnard Castle on the
river Tees, not unknown in military annals,
inserted, the other day, an important page
in sanitary history. A few of the most
enlightened and energetic of the eight thousand
who now inhabit that ancient patrimony of
John Baliol, formed themselves lately into a
Local Board of Health; and, taking powers
under the Public Health Act—and, with them,
advice and assistance from the General Board
of Health—have completed efficient sewage
and water works, with a degree of success and
economy which ought to encourage all the
ill-drained and badly watered towns in the
kingdom to follow its example. What
Barnard Castle has done, many other places
(most places indeed) can do more easily
and cheaply; for local difficulties had to
be overcome, not existing in every other
town.

Although Barnard Castle has beaten a large
field of competitors in sanitary improvement
by coming to the winning post first, yet it is
gratifying to learn from a speech delivered by
Mr. Chadwick on the spot, that there are
now seventy three cities and towns where
surveys preparatory to new works are either
complete or are in progress. There are, also,
fifty four cities and towns where plans for
complete works of drainage and water supply
—for the entire abolition of all cesspools; for
constant instead of intermittent supplies of
water to be carried into the very poorest
cottager's room; and for the removal of all
stagnant waters—are in various stages of
progress: several being completed. The
house supplies of water will be given at one-
half the previous rates levied for an imperfect
distribution of by no means pure water; and
the house purification will be effected at half
the existing charge for cleaning cesspools,
drains, or sewers of deposit. As a result of
the Local Boards joining with the General
Board of Health in these objects, and carrying
them on under their sanction, the greatest
of all conceivable engineering difficulties will
be overcome: namely, that of making the
expense of the works not exceed the previous
estimates. This, however, must be fully
verified by extended experiment before it can
be universally believed. It was actually
fulfilled in Barnard Castle; from that town
being blessed probably with an uncommonly
shrewd local board, and a curiously conscientious
engineer.

The provisional orders, which the General
Board of Health furnish to the localities
applying for them, have all the force of local
Acts of Parliament, the lowest price of which