proceeded through the same unmitigated
swamps, until in about two hours, we were
overtaken by one of the heavy tropical
showers of rain, steady, incessant, and
perpendicular. We worked slowly and
dispiritedly on. The path had, by this time,
been converted into a foaming roaring
torrent; frequently, where the rocks were
steep, ascending into the dignity of a waterfall;
and against this the stubborn mules had
to force their way. At length, when the
night had become thoroughly dark, we passed
down a rocky pathway, and reached the
welcome half-way house; like the other
houses of entertainment for man and beast,
this was a long hut divided into three parts,—
the bar, the eating room, and the sleeping
room, unceiled of course, aud the roof
inhabited by spiders with massive cobwebs,
scorpions, centipedes, and lizards.

In this delectable abode, situated in the
midst of a dismal forest, rising from a reeking
morass, about forty drenched mortals congregated.
After a scanty but very expensive
supper, and after my hiring a blanket and
towel as temporary evening costume, we
assembled in the long sleeping room. This
was indeed a curiosity! Three tiers of bunks,
as in a steam packet, lined the walls, while
the body of the room was filled up with a row
of hammocks; and in this closely crowded
lodging a motley crew of colonels and
Californians, loafers and lumberers, swindlers and
sailors, merchants and murderers, with other
travellers of all ages and sexes, were to be
accommodated. The singing of mosquitoes,
lizards, and bull-frogs, kept up far too lively
a concert to allow of sleep to any of us. One
gentleman diverted himself by playing at
"blind hookey " with the landlord, and lost
five hundred dollars; others roared
sentimental songs and the like most murderously.

It was the peculiar characteristic of some of
these gentry, that, without having a cent in
their pockets, they were enabled to hire
mules, eat suppers, and drink liquor with the
best. One individual informed us that in the
neighbourhood of the city of Persepolis—state
of Iowa—he realised eight hundred and fifty-
seven dollars by exhibiting " the great Troquois
Hopuponthomatherium " at two dimes admittance.
This wonderful animal he described
as being formed by procuring a dray horse,
cutting off his ears close, shaving his forehead
and hind quarters, and curling up the
rest of his hair backwards. On another occasion
he got his passage cheap by agreeing to
allow the captain to sell him for a term of
five years on arrival at San Francisco; the
transaction was accordingly completed, and
the captain made a " handsome realisation."
When, however, the worthy was delivered
over to his new master, he said, "Now, sir! I
guess you'll find me the hardest piece of
mortality you ever set your eyes on; " and
summarily released himself from bondage by
shooting his master through the head. Such
Californians as these, many of whom shared
our bedchamber, were easy to recognise; long
tangled hair, beard, and moustache; sunken
haggard cheeks, blear eyes, and hatchet faces;
a red shirt, broad brimmed hat, revolver in
the breast, long bowie knife in the belt, grey
trowsers, and high boots.

In such company our second night on the
Isthmus passed away slowly enough. I was
unable to sleep, because on one side of my
hammock were a noisy Kentuckian and a
talkative sea captain, and on the other a gentleman
from New York; who, every five
minutes, informed the public generally in a
loud twanging voice, that " his revolver was
at full cock, and that the first 'coon as touched
his hammock would die right away without
kicking." Nevertheless he was lowered down
in the middle of the night, and consequently
bang went his revolver three times, to the
imminent danger of my life; but the bullets
luckily lodged in the opposite wall.

Day at length broke, and putting on our
half-dried clothes, we again mounted the
jaded mules, and continued our course along
the same narrow torrent beds, and fearful
muddy man-traps for several miles and
several hours.

Gradually, however, this dismal slough
assumed the appearance of a bridle path;
fields of Indian corn and pasture land arose
in place of the dense forest; the bridle-path
became a road, and at length the clear blue
Pacific burst upon our view, with many
verdant islets embosomed on its azure depths.
We trotted through a suburb, passed under
the old gate, and entered the City of Panama.

The old city of Panama is bounded on
three sides by the sea, and surrounded by a
wall, preserved with great care, with a ditch
and two bastions on the land side. In the
centre of the town is the Plaza, with an old
cathedral on one side, and the State House
on the other; and through the town runs
the " Calle de las Monjas," or what is now
called by the Americans, Main street. It
consists of old-fashioned Spanish houses, with
broad verandahs, and folding doors instead
of windows; which a few years ago looked
sedate and sleepy enough, no doubt; but a
strange metamorphosis has come over the old
town. Now glaring red and gilt sign-boards
hang across the streets in every direction. One
large house, formerly inhabited by a haughty
Spanish Don, is now covered with every
fanciful description of parti-coloured notice
of entertainment. A blue sign-post inscribed
American Hotel in bright red hangs from
one story; American Hotel in white is painted
over another; and ICE, EGG NOGG, GOOD
LODGING, BRANDY SMASHES, CHEAP BOARD.
are painted, in every conceivable vacant spot
all over the house. This splendid establishment
is warranted to hold two hundred and
forty travellers, principally in a long room,
lined on both sides with three tiers of
benches, and a table down the middle, on which