people, who cannot afford a vehicle, begin to
disappear. Those who are obstinate prepare to
take refuge on the mounds that extend along
the walls of the houses. The precaution is
in vain, for the mud splashes up to the roofs
on either hand, and prudent housewives shut
their windows. Presently another young
Boyard whirls into the street. By tacit consent
a race is at once begun. A third competitor
appears. Then a fourth. At length
dozens, hundreds, of various kinds of vehicles
join in; all moving at terrific speed, backward
and forward, as if they were running desperate
races for enormous stakes. Some may
drop off, but others come to increase the whirl
and confusion, and the hurry-skurry continues
until long after the crazy lanterns are lighted.
This is the best time to see the Po-de-Mogochoya
in, what the fashionables of Bucharest
are pleased to call its glory. From the roof
of the hotel, kept by M. Louzzo, this thoroughfare
resembles a vast trench, at the bottom of
which lights are flashing to and fro with
immense rapidity. Besides the trampling of
the high stepping horses, and the rattling
of the wheels, there rises on the air a continued
shout; for the coachmen, getting excited
in their work, urge on their horses
with half-savage cries, or jeer one another;
whilst their masters occasionally put their
heads out of window and roar a salutation
to some passing acquaintance. Accidents
rarely occur, which seems a miracle. At
about nine o'clock every one goes home to
coffee and whist, and the streets are entirely
deserted, save by a band of some fifty policemen,
who patrol in various directions, and
by some hundreds of private watchmen,
called, from the cry they use, Quiné Acôlo
(who goes there?).

It must be admitted that Bucharest is
rapidly improving. In a few years our
description will no longer apply; that is to
say, if the development of civilisation be
not checked by the continued presence of
a foreign army, and the interference of rival
despotisms. It would not be doing justice to
the Wallachians if we omitted to mention,
that all the classes which are accessible by
position to education, have been, for some
years past, animated by an extreme desire of
improvement. Two distinct influences are at
work: that of Russia, which is accepted by
necessity; and that of France, which is chosen
from taste. The Wallachian ladies, especially,
import their ideas and their bonnets
from Paris, and we have known some whose
elegance and refinement, both of manners
and of mind, could not be surpassed in
Belgravia, or the Faubourg St. Germain.
They have besides a certain simplicity
of character that exhibits itself now and
then in charming simplicities that only
render them more fascinating. The fault
into which they are most liable to fall, is
affectation. They are sometimes ashamed
of the very quality that gives the charm
to their character, and escape into extravagance
to avoid what they fear may be called
rusticity.

It is not long since the people of Wallachia,
nobles and peasants, were amongst the rudest
and most uncouth people in Europe. Nearly
all their improvement dates from this century.
Fifty years ago, the children of the richest
Boyards were brought up in almost a wild
state, in company with the servants and slaves
of the house; who were for the most part
Zigans, who took pleasure in teaching them
their own vices. The little instruction that
existed, comprised a knowledge of the Greek
language, which was made fashionable by the
Court of the Zanariate Hospodars. A kaloyer,
procured from some convent for the purpose,
became part of the family, and whilst teaching
his language, contrived to infiltrate a few
notions principally on theological subjects.
Some stiff old Boyards resisted this Hellenic
influence; but as a general rule, all the upper
classes spoke Greek. In the last century the
services of the church were celebrated in the
Sclavonic language, which neither the clergy
nor the people understood; but afterwards
they were translated into Wallachian or
modern Greek. At present, the French language
has been very generally introduced, and
it is rare to find a respectable person who
cannot speak it. In most houses there is
a library of French literature, and it is
worth observing that the Belgian piracies
are looked upon with distrust and contempt:
every one prides himself on having
the best Paris edition. Since, indeed, the
final emergence of Wallachia into the quasi
independence in the year eighteen hundred
and thirty-four, praise-worthy efforts have
been made, especially in Bucharest, to supply
all classes with means of education.

We cannot say, however, that as a general
rule the class of Boyards is very far advanced.
To understand their real state and
position, the knowledge of a few details
is necessary. As in many countries of the
east, the population of Wallachia is practically
divided into four distinct castes, the
limits of which are divided by social and political,
not religious prejudices. Above the
Zigans come the peasants; and then the merchants
and the Boyards. This last word means
a fighting man or warrior, and is now used as a
title. Those who bear it are all landed proprietors,
and indeed nearly the whole country is
divided between them and the religious congregations.
In old times, they lived scattered
through the whole province on their estates
like our feudal barons; but they now congregate
in the capital and leave the charge of
their property to stewards. When we speak
of the influence of foreign civilisation on
Wallachian society, we allude to this congregation
of more or less wealthy land-owners
whose means and position allow
them to indulge in luxury and to cultivate
refinement.