resting place, and had no sameness to
complain of.

While Mrs. Partlet was in preparation,
and a kettle of water getting its steam up
for a cup of tea to succeed, I could secure
to myself the morning comfort of a shave, a
bath, and a complete change of clothes. I
did not stop at that, or any, bungalow ten
minutes longer than was necessary for my
reasonable comfort; and, having paid the
stipulated rupee for a day's hire for the
apartment, and another for the refreshment
and backsheesh or gratuity, signed the
bungalow book before noon, noting in the column
for remarks, "Everything satisfactory," and
went on.

Our progress was much as before. The
road all the way, except where its wounds
were being healed with a plaster of kunkur,
was in a sound condition, the worst of it
being the Barrackpore road, just outside
Calcutta. We had an event with a horse
that was brought to the door to excite my
pity, and I did pity it; but, as there was no
other, it was harnessed; and, being harnessed,
ran away with us and came to the end of its
stage in an incredibly short time.

At about the hundred and third milestone
I saw rising ground ahead. As I had resided
for sixteen years on flats, it was the first
undulating country I had seen during that
time; and, perhaps partly for that reason,
as we ascended the ridge of Khairasole,
the scenery reminded me of moorland
prospects in the north country at home. In
descending the ridge on the other side, I
was moved almost to tears by the English
look of the Dermoodah valley, with a river
winding into the remote distance, and the
smoky chimneys of the coal-mines that
completed the resemblance to those unforgotten
scenes familiar to my youth. Mountains
presently began to loom on the horizon
till they crowded on my sight. My heart
bounded in their presence.

I found that the beggars, which abound
along the whole road, scorned some of the
pice which would pass current in Calcutta;
and that a telescope was good, not only to
bring far objects near, but also to remove
near objects to a distance. If the crowd
of beggars became troublesome I levelled my
telescope with a bang, and away they all
scampered, apparently considering it to be
some near relation to a loaded cannon.

In the middle of a fine night we reached
the river Barackur, and crossed it after
much hallooing, by the help of a ferry-
boat and coolies. Then on, in a drizzly
morning over a wild moorland. Then
through more cheerful country, while I hung
over my map and gazed at the clear sky
ahead for a first sight of the majestic and
sacred mountain Parisnauth. We came upon
it in a disappointing way; but, after we had
passed it for a long time, it remained the
grandest feature of the scene behind our
backs, with clouds at its summit and fine grey
crags projecting here and there out of the
forest of green trees which reaches to its very
top. At one station, soon after passing
Parisnauth, there were two horses so
obviously unfit for service, that the next stage
was performed without a horse, by help of
nine coolies. I should have said eight and a
boy; but, among coolies, boys are the best
men always. These rattled us on merrily
through the twilight, achieving seven miles
of hilly country in an hour and twenty-seven
minutes. Threepence halfpenny per man,
and man's pay to the boy, sent them
home shouting and singing with the fullest
satisfaction.

After three days of this life I had fallen
into the travelling habit, and adopted my
carriage as a home. On awaking early in
the morning I threw open the doors and
windows of my little room, and sat in the
doorway with my feet upon the step, enjoying
the fresh air. Then I took a light breakfast
of biscuit and water, made my room tidy for
the day; and, at about nine or ten o'clock,
halted at a Dawk bungalow for more complete
refreshment of the inner and the outer man,
after the manner already detailed. Then on
I went again, amusing myself with small
things; recording the rate of progress in my
note-book by help of my watch and the
milestones, looking about me, jumping out to
help on a weak or lazy horse, and doing
anything but read. I had plenty of books with
me, but could not fix my mind on their
contents. When evening came, I sat in the
doorway again, or stood on the step, till the
night chill drove me into my lair; then I put
on a flannel coat, supped upon biscuit and
weak brandy and water, and went easily to
sleep. When stoppages, or other night
disturbances aroused me, I looked at the time
by help of a lucifer match, inquired of the
coachman as to place, and resumed my
slumbers.

On the fourth day of the journey I again
crossed the Barackur, on that occasion by
a handsome stone bridge of nine arches.
Towards evening we crossed a still larger
bridge of, I think, sixteen grand arches
crossing the Leelájan. These were indeed
noble bits of road-making, though I should
say that a detachment of three arches over
a side stream had broken down not many
days previous to our arrival at it. The
event of the fourth day's travel was the
ride through the Dunwah Pass. At the
previous stage a smart-looking Mussulman—the
horse-contractor I suppose—civilly announced
his intention of accompanying me to Dunwah,
and found accommodation for himself behind.
The road was much the same as usual, and
there was no particular sign of mountain,
until presently I found that we were going
down hill by a winding road most rapidly.
My Mussulman friend ran alongside, holding
on by the front of the carriage, Down we