improved in make and shape in England, but
covered with the best French plush, which
we cannot dye of the true black, the silk
hat is worn by judges and guardsmen.
Christie first produced a respectable article.
Under the pressure of a strike of his beaver
hat makers, he sent to Paris for workmen,
and did away with the prejudice against silk.
It was time, for the poor beaver, hunted up
in the remotest wilds, was almost extinct.
A better looking hat may now be had for
sixteen shillings than formerly cost forty.
Observe how seldom the red, cut forehead, so
common in the old hard cheap hat times, is
to be seen now.  Hat-making has trebled
and quadrupled in importance as a trade
since the importation of French plush became
lawful.  In riding there is nothing equal
to the hunting cap, which won't fall off,
protects the eyes from sun, wind, and
brambles, and can be ventilated.  In some
counties it is the foolish fashion to hunt in
hats, which often require a hand to hold on
that would be better employed on the
bridle.  For, as Squire Warburton sings,

Old wiseheads, complacently smoothing the brim,
May jeer at my velvet, and call it a whim;
     But when Broadbrim lies flat,
     I will answer him pat,
Oh who but a crackskull would ride in a hat?

Sooner or later the hunting-cap or helmet-
shaped hat will become universal in the field
and in the army.  As it is becoming to most
faces, it must be the foundation of hat
reform, if any be needed.  Perhaps it is as
well to keep up a division between town dress
and country dress.  The Americans have
made a great mistake in making a black
suit—including a black satin waistcoat, which
gets so soon shabby—their universal
costume.

I must not conclude my gossip without a
few more words about riding dress.  This our
ancestors, who lived on horseback, understood
better than we do.  Trowsers are a mistake,
except for a mere promenade à cheval: they
get splashed, stained with perspiration, and
pulled out of shape; and they do not afford so
firm or graceful a seat as boots and breeches.
Leathers for hunting in fine weather are the
most comfortable wear, if you have a man who
can clean them at home; otherwise the expense
is ruinous.  In wet weather, unless very
thick, they are apt to turn to tripe.  They
should not be too tight.  During the tight era
it used to take the fat colonel of a dragoon
regiment an hour to get into a new pair of
doeskins.  A really well-fitting pair of leathers
are a luxury; and with comfortable boots enable
a man to ride over the stiffest fence with
comfort and confidence.  For wet weather worsted
cord are good wear.  The white cloth imitation
of buckskin is liable to turn a seedy
yellow in washing.

The patent leather Napoleons introduced
into this country by the late Lord Alvanley
are pleasant and economical hunting
boots: a wet sponge supersedes the careful
labours of a servant on tops.  Top boots look
well on tall men.  Napoleons have been much
depreciated by certain writers on sport
because they are economical—as if love of
sport depended on a balance at your banker's.

If I were now asked what are the cardinal,
rules to be followed by a young swell of the
nineteenth century—and all young fellows
of leisure have a right to be swells for one
year in their lives—I shall say, first be clean;
secondly, neat; thirdly, consistent; fourthly,
becoming in your dress.  To be clean is easier
now than twenty-five years ago.  Sixpenny
baths are to be found in all large towns, and
zinc pans, with a sponge, are the rule in
all bedrooms.  Clean linen is fortunately
more the fashion with open neck and sleeves
than when a black stock and tight sleeves hid
the colour of the shirt.  Neatness consists in
clothes well made, and put on with decent
care.  To be consistent, wear that which looks
suitable to your pursuit.  Don't let your
friends cry out, when you enter your office,
"Here is Crusty in his red plaid trowsers!"
for though the pattern looked very well on
young Flabby of the Guards, who wore them
six times at six different races, and then gave
them to his valet, they don't do for you, who
can only afford four pair in a year.  And
although Flabby, who is a very handsome
fellow, with dark hair and a fresh complexion,
looked very well in a green surtout
and a peach-coloured cravat, they would look
very shabby on you in three months.

People with plenty of money may consult
their fancy and their tailor, always remembering
that there is nothing so absurd as a
man who dresses for himself.  But ninety
per cent of our friends should choose what
will look well to the last.

Harmony is worth studying.  Thumpington,
who was applying for an appointment in the
Grand Thibet Railway, as cashier, called on
me the other day, looking woe-begone and
wretched, in a black suit, rather too new.
I made him substitute a dark blue silk for an
ill-washed white cravat, and he went away
looking cheerful and respectable.  He got the
situation, and attributes his gracious reception
at first sight to the purple cravat.  All the
staring colours are to be avoided, but a bright
colour may be worn if well harmonised.  All
black on a sallow complexion with dark hair,
is the costume of misery.  A white waistcoat
has often been a great success, by giving
light and cheerfulness to a lecture or a
speech.  Seediness, especially in washed-out
summer clothes, is detestable: so are silks
or satin worn at the button-holes, or half-
dirty embroidered waistcoats, which we see
on very respectable people.  The bachelor who
cannot depend on his washerwoman should
eschew white ducks, and stick to his tweed
or doeskin.  Great liberties of taste may be
allowed to a handsome young fellow of from