being baked, liquor it with white wine,
butter and sugar, and ice it. On flesh days
put marrow to it."

If the fish are odd, the pastry is more
so. That section on pastry demands a
volume to itself. To begin with, do our
present cooks make paste for a pie in this
manner: "Take to a gallon of flour a pound
of butter; boil it in fair water; and make
the paste up quick ?" Or have we eatable
custard paste like this: " Let it be onely boiling
water and flour without butter; or put
sugar to it, which will add to the stifness of
it, and thus likewise all paste for crusts and
orangado tarts and such like? " If this was
intended to be eaten and digested, they had
good stomachs in those days. The garnish
of dishes, which we make now of paste
stamped out by a cutter, was then made in
moulds. They were called stock fritters or
fritters of arms, and were made of " fine
flower " into a batter no thicker than thin
cream. The brass moulds were heated in
clarified butter; then dipped half-way in the
batter and fried, to garnish any boiled
fish, meats, or stewed oysters. " View
their form," ends Robert May, garnishing
this recipe with three woodcuts—the
first is the likeness of a pike in all the
agonies of acute indigestion; the second a
cross-bar, like the heraldic sign of a mascle;
and the third like a grotesque pink or carnation.
Then paste was fried out of a seringe,
or butter-squirt, like little worms lying about
the dish. Well, that was only a coarser kind
of vermicelli or macaroni, so we have no right
to laugh at it. " Blamanger " is apparently
always made of capon " boild all to mash,"
or of pike boiled in fair water, very tender,
and chopped small; boiled on a soft fire,
remember, in a broad, clean-scoured skillet
to the thickness of an apple moise. And
when made, this blamanger, and creams, and
jellies too of all kinds, are served up in forms
and shapes like the most hideous of those
geometrical ravings which artistically-minded
children draw on their slates for ornament.
A pippin pie is to be made of thirty good
large pippins, thirty cloves, a quarter of an
ounce of whole cinamon, and as much pared
and slic't, a quarter of a pound of orangado,
as much of lemon in sucket (sweet-meat), and
a pound and a half of refined sugar; close it
up and bake it—it will ask four hours
baking—then ice it with butter, sugar and
rose-water. There is a quince pie that looks
like an unintelligible astronomical figure, with
the signs of the zodiac all round; and there
are pippin tarts of half-moons, and rounds, and
ninepins with spots all over them; and other
fruit pies like cathedral windows; and a tart
of pips; and a tart of spinage; and a taffety
tart (apple, lemon- peel, and fennel-seed); and
cream tarts made of cream thickened with
muskified bisket-bread, and preserved
citteron, and in the middle a preserved orange
with biskets, the garnish of the dish being of
puff-paste; and receipts for all manner of
tart stuff, that " carries his colour black, or
yellow, or green, or red." There are recipes
for triffels, for sack possets, for wassel,
Norfolk fools, white-pot, pyramidis cream,
metheglin, ippocras, jamballs, jemelloes,
ambergreece cakes, marchpanes, paste of violets,
burrage, bugloss, rosemary, cowslips, &c.,
portingall tarts, and many more that we
cannot even allude to. There is a recipe for
a dish of marchpane to look like collops of
bacon; for making muskedines, called rising
comfits, or kissing comfits, made of " half-a-
pound of refined sugar beaten and searced;
put into it two grains of musk, a grain of
civet, two grains of amber-juyce, and a
thimble-full of white orris powder; beat all
these with gum-dragon steeped in
rose-water; then roul it as thin as you can, and
cut it into little lozenges with your iging-
iron, and stow them in some warm oven or
stove, then box them and keep them all the
year." There is an " Extraordinary Pie, or a
Bride Pie of severall Compounds, being severall
distinct pies on one bottom." One of the
ingredients is a snake or some live birds,
"which will seem strange to the beholders
who cut up the pie at the table." This is
"onely for a wedding, to pass away time."

Then there are " maremaid pyes," made of
pork and eels; and " minced pyes of calves'
chaldrons, or muggets," made of grapes,
gooseberries, barberries, and bacon; and
there are "heads" made into pyes, with a wood-
cut underneath that looks literally like half
a carpet rug with a scroll at the two ends;
and there are recipes for " baking all manner
of sea-fowl, as swan, whopper, dap-chicks,
&c.;" and there are marinated pallets, and
lips, and noses; and Italian chips of different
coloured pastes in layers; and then there are
sallets.

Here is a grand sallet. A cold roast capon,
or other roast white meat, cut small, mingled
with a little minced tarragon, and an onion,
lettice, olives, samphire, broom-buds, pickled
mushrooms, pickled oysters, lemon, orange,
raisins, almonds, blew figs, Virginia potato,
caperons, crucifex pease, and the like.
Garnish this medley with quarters of oranges and
lemons, and pour on oyl and vinegar beaten
together. Another sallet has the following
mixture: " Take all manner of knots of buds
of sallet herbs, buds of potherbs, or any green
herbs, as sage, mint, balm, burnet, violet-
leaves, red coleworts streaked of different
colours, lettice, any flowers, blanched
almonds, blew figs, raisins of the sun, currans,
capers, olives; then dish the sallet in a heap
or pile, being mixt with some of the fruits,
and all finely washed and swung in a
napkin; then about the center lay first slic't
figs, next capers and currans, then almonds
and raisins, next olives, and lastly either
jagged beets, jagged lemons, jagged cucumbers,
cabbidge-lettice in quarters, good oyl.
and wine vinegar sugar or none."