admonitions. Such a course would be
ungraceful, as savouring of that vulgar
species of self-laudation or egotism which is,
or ought to be, abhorred of gods and men.
I will here simply add, to the facts which
were laid nearly a lustre ago before an
observant public, that it appears in my humble
judgment we altogether misconceive the true
spirit of advertising, and that our tradesmen
do not set about it in that honest and
straightforward manner which I should be
glad to see once more a sure characteristic
of anything so truly British as the art of
puffing. The sums spent in advertising are
far beyond all reasonable calculation.
Advertising on a large scale is generally
understood to succeed, whatever it may do on a
small one. Our advertisements are, however,
the clumsiest, stupidest things conceiveable.
The veriest tyro in his art should
be ashamed of them. They disfigure some
of the finest sites of our metropolis, they
blind us with their intolerable red and yellow
glare,  they frighten our horses with weird
unusual shapes; in a word, they are
sometimes ridiculous, and sometimes offensive.
Not one of the spirited and enterprising persons
who deface our capital with these manifold
abominations, I would respectfully
suggest, have clearly understood their true
interests. They do not appear to have marked,
learned, and inwardly digested the capital
principle which was suggested to them on so l
large a scale at the Great Exposition of
eighteen hundred and fifty-one. The best artificers
and mechanics of every description in the
world seem to shrink, with a shamefacedness
altogether unaccountable, from a frank and
fair exhibition of their handiwork. They
have altogether overlooked the valuable
capacities of railway trains as so many moveable
palaces of industry. A thousand new and
ingenious contrivances might be constantly
introduced by means of them to a wide and
constantly-increasing public, and every carriage
might be provided with suitable articles
of comfort, convenience, and ornament, without
a shilling expense to the wincing
shareholders. I am sure that if advertisers will
fairly consider this hint, and railway officials
unite in carrying it out, travelling might be
often made an instructive amusement, instead
of a means of getting the backache in the
dullest manner. Little glass cases of novelties
(well fastened and secured) might be
placed in convenient positions, before people
who would have often nothing else to do
but examine them and reflect on their value
during many hours. By a proper system of
perambulating guards, such as that which is
organised on all foreign railways, robberies
would be out of the question. A good light
might also be secured in railway carriages
on the skylight principle, from the roof, and
by better (say advertisement) lamps at night.

To return, however, from suggestions to
facts, it is quite certain that our railway
carriages are still inferior in very many
respects to those in foreign countries,
this difference is in few places more perceptible
than in the third class waggons on
Belgian lines. I am aware that it will be as
difficult to obtain useful reforms here as
elsewhere; but as the British constitution and
Rule Britannia can scarcely be mixed up in
the matter by any ingenuity of the most
consummate official casuist, perhaps we may
venture to entertain something like a growing
expectation of improvement within fifty
years or thereabouts.

I regret to state that the Belgian custom-
house is by no means so agreeable an institution
as the Belgian railway. It has given
me some very needless trouble. It has idly
delayed me, without any comprehensible
reason, five clear days upon my journey, and
I am now obliged to go from Malines to
Gaud (a central depot) in order to make
things pleasant. I shall succeed, but the
custom-house authorities have been, and are,
in the habit of adopting very inconvenient
proceedings, nevertheless. They are indecorously
fond of small quibbles and petty
quirks. They pounce on a few centimes
(from me they took sixteen, or three half-
pence and a fraction) with a haste rather
undignified, if not unbecoming.

However, I may thank them for an
improving little trip, and it would therefore be
but churlish to grumble. I am enjoying the
almost unknown luxury of travelling without
luggage or impediments of any kind;
for, as I am journeying within the frontiers, I
am not worried even with a passport question.
It is late in September; but there has
been such an unusual continuation of fine
weather, that I begin to have some hope
even of the wayward climate of Flanders.
I am not without a charitable expectation
that this climate has at last resolved to
redeem a very doubtful character, and
abstain altogether from fog and water for the
future. Although, on ordinary occasions, a
wary and prudent traveller, I resolve on the
present occasion to undertake my journey
without even a cloak or umbrella, and to trust
my second-best clothes and a middle-aged
hat entirely to the honour and fair promises
of the morning. As the reader may be
apprehensive of the result, it is proper also
to add that my confidence was not misplaced,
and that the weather courteously deputed to
attend me throughout the day, behaved with
the most cheerful and obliging manner, not
even venturing to blow a cloud, lest I should
begin to entertain a passing doubt of its
integrity . I carry nothing with me, therefore,
but a pocket-book, a cigar-case, a
volume of Robinson Crusoe in French,
which I bought at the book-stall for
emergencies, and have been reading since with
an ever-fresh and eager delight.

Notwithstanding, however, the example of
so many British travellers, I begin at length