me that the wardrobe of one of their comrades
was to be sold by auction. Accordingly, I
bought for thirty-three piastres (about six
shillings and ninepence), a greasy red-cloth
waistcoat, a striped cotton ditto, and the
remains of a red-and-yellow cotton sash, with
a red cap, nearly black from age, knocked
down at fourteen piastres; so, at a cheap
rate, I was equipped like a Turkish soldier
who had not received his pay for eighteen
months."

And at another time in the desert, he says:
"I was dressed in the light costume of the
Arabs: a pair of drawers, a ferda thrown
over my shoulders, a heavy two-edged sword
hung over my left arm, to which were also
bound a heap of amulets and a knife. In
dress I was a nigger; in colour, a Turk."

After this, those who can follow our
traveller may despise and abandon
portmanteaus for the East.

For sporting excursions in cold climates,
part of the hunting costume in use on the
Carpathian Mountains is worth attention.
"Warm knitted stockings; and, over them, a
pair of soft Russian leather boots, which can
be turned down in folds below the knee, or,
if needful, pulled up to the hip. To keep the
hands warm in severe weather, so as to be
able to handle the gun, in addition to thin
gloves, a small fur muff may be slung from
the neck, in which the hands may rest until
wanted. The metal parts of the gun in hard
frosts which the hands are likely to touch,
should be bound with leather.

A good saddle is indispensable. Galton
and Pallisser both agree that there is
nothing like an English hunting-saddle, and
Galton found it as useful with an ox as
with a horse. Saddles for foreign use
must be much more stuffed than in England,
as all half-wild horses are smaller, and
often carry the saddle badly for want of fine
shoulders. We consider the Yorkshire hunting
saddle, with plain unstuffed flaps, the
best for wear, as it is not spoilt by heavy
rain. A blanket rolled and strapped over
the pommel, in the Australian fashion, is
handy when you camp, and forms a better
support for the knees, in going down steep
hills, or with a breaking half-broken brute,
than stuffed flaps. In posting on horseback
in France twenty years ago, we used to keep,
expressly for the purpose, a demi-pique
saddle, made wide between the cantle and
the pommel, with a well-stuffed seat – one
could sleep in it. But in wild countries, with
strange horses, especially in chasing deer or
boar, your nag is sure to fall occasionally.
A fall at a fast pace on a hunting-saddle, flat
before and behind, is nothing to a good horseman,
for he rolls out of the way; but stuck
fast in a high-piqued military saddle, it is
very dangerous, as you are sure to be crushed
when the horse rolls over. We are inclined
to believe that a saddle invented by the late
Captain Nolan, described in his Cavalry
Tactics, is much the best for travelling or
hunting, if altered a little from its military
shape. This saddle, instead of stuffing pads,
has a cover of serge into which three or
more slips of felt are put, according
to the size of the horse's back ; if on a
journey, he falls off in condition, an extra
slip of felt makes it fit, and prevents a sore
back. There are no leather flaps, but instead,
a saddle-cloth of felt an inch thick. Such,
a saddle is as strong and much lighter than
an ordinary saddle, and will fit any horse. You
can saddle a restive horse with greater facility ;
while the seat of the rider is more firm, and
the control more complete, in consequence of
his legs pressing again the horses' side without
a slippery leather flap between – this is an
especial advantage after riding all day in the
rain. A bridle should be made that it may
also be used as a headstall, with links and
hooks, or that the bit can be slipped out of
the horse's mouth for the purpose of feeding
without taking the bridle off his head. By
having a great number of hooks (D) strongly
sewn to a travelling saddle, anything required
can be fastened on with strings or straps.
Cruppers we don't use in England, but they
are essential for safety abroad as well as
breastplates.

Food and cookery must be considered
together. Galton advises the traveller to study
the crops of birds in order to learn whether
the berries or leaves of the country he is in
are poisonous or not. This rule has exceptions,
but is the only guide that can be
suggested. Rank birds should be skinned, as the
rankness generally lies in the skin. On the
sea-coast cooks baste sea-birds, skinned, with
salt water, on the probably correct idea, that
it diminishes the fishy flavour. For kinds
of food we refer to Galton. In Java they
cook trout by wrapping them in rice-straw,
and setting it on fire: when the straw is burned
the fish is cooked. Scotchmen say that the fish
is turned into a capital imitation of a Loch
Fyne haddock. But, says Mansfield Parkyns:
"It does not do for a traveller to be
particular about food – for instance, metah is the
standing dish of Nubia, composed principally
of barnya, a vegetable pod of a mucilaginous
nature, with pounded meal and other
ingredients, being about the consistency of
hasty-pudding, but so sticky that when eating it
with bread you are obliged to clean your
fingers, which become webbed like a duck's
foot. Nevertheless, I never tired of it."
He also got quite into the way of eating
raw beefsteak, after the Abyssinian fashion,
cut in long strips, and then a convenient
slice, fast held by the teeth, is divided by an
upward blow of a sabre, just missing the
eater's nose. He tried locusts fried on an
iron girdle as dessert, and found them very
dry, much like frizzled quill-ends. An iron
pot, with a lid the size of a crown-piece, will
cook enough for three at a time, and the lid
makes a good frying-pan. We have known