relations; the reason of which, however, is but
too often that our artists do not keep the
little domain " intrusted with all the pains
and attention, on the score of the virtue that
comes next to godliness, that could be desired.
Were it otherwise, many fatal
misunderstandings might be avoided. As for instance,
that of the artist who had been but a short
time lending his services to an opulent house.
One day the mistress chanced to direct her
steps in the direction of those under-ground
regions, known as the kitchen. The chief
addressed her in a tone which scarcely
disguised his anger. ".Madame," he said,
sarcastically, " whoever comes here, exposes
herself to the risk of stain! " " Sir!"
answered the outraged lady, "you are either a
fool or an impertinent." " Perhaps both. " "I
could pass over the first, but the other,
never! " The ill-fated chief received his
dismissal on the instant, and was thrown
upon the world an outcast, all for that
unlucky speech; which, in its turn, must be
set down to the morbid feeling consequent
upon a great mind's being surprised in a
small dereliction.

On the other hand, those intellects who
are truly given to their art, will court rather
than shun such visits. Their faces will kindle
with an honest joy, where the lady of the
house takes what is known as the rolling-pin
in her delicate hand, and prepares to construct
a tart. Why blame such a weakness! We
have all had it, Monsieur Gogué adds, even in
tender years. " Observe the little girls! There
is no toy so dear to them as their little snowy
service of wood, and that diminutive cooking
battery of shining metal. What joy for them
comparable to that of cutting up an apple into
small slices, which, being placed with,
symmetry on the miniature pan, shall bear the
name of fried soles: or to watch over their
little pot-au-feu, as it simmers gently with a
bon-bon inside, which by a happy fiction
becomes a joint of beef! " Ingenious and
poetic illustration! most playful cook!

Would you know the secret of learning
whether the artist who presents himself for
engagement have cleanly ways in his
manipulation, turn your eyes upon his hands,
upon his nails specially; these are the indices
of his purity. "This brings to my mind,"
continues Monsieur Gogué, "a little adventure
which occurred when I was in London, filling
the office of chief to my Lord Melville, then
Minister of Marine. A friend came to me
to recommend a young man of excellent
qualifications in his profession, and who was
but newly arrived in London. Some days
after, I was happy enough to make known to
him an employ then vacant, with a noble
lord at court; and I spoke of him to the
maître d'hôtel, an intimate friend of my own,
and who at once introduces him to my lady.
Observe what followed. She merely threw
one rapid glance over the person of the young
and dismissed him without a word.
Utterly abashed, confused, and overwhelmed
at such a reception, the young man flew to
me and told his tale. I went straight to the
maître d'hôtel, saying how astonished I was
that any one should thus comport themselves
towards a distinguished artist, who, besides,
had presented himself in becoming costume;
that is to say, in black suit, new hat, and
varnished boots. The maître d'hôtel owned
that the youth was so far irreproachable;
but the fact was my lady always looked to the
hands rather than to the feet, and those
unhappily were far from proper." A terrible
warning this short history; which those
whom it may concern may take home to
themselves.

Long hair in a chief, carries with it grave
inconveniences. Moustachios may pass, if he
makes a point of it; but he should not,
Monsieur Gogué wisely adds, turn himself into the
likeness of a bearded sapper. Smoking
cannot be tolerated. " What could be expected
from that man whose palate, vitiated by
tobacco, is to pass judgment on the seasoning
of a sauce, or the correct savour of meat!"
Cooks of the other sex do not usually sin in
this respect; cannot, fortunately, in that
other of the beard and moustaches. "But
we have unhappily in the profession ladies
whose fingers are never out of the snuff-box;
et mon Dieu! what a snuff-box! An artiste
who is once become the slave of this degrading
habit, will she ever have the power of resisting
a pinch, though she were at the most
interesting moment of a choice dish—though
she were at the turning point of a fricassee of
fowl, or a shape of cream. She must satisfy
that imperious craving of her nostril before
everything! but 'tis ruin to the fowl, ruin to
the cream! " Such terrible warning should
not go unheeded.

A man of genius, who has walked through
cooking life with his eyes open may have
words of wisdom to drop anent matters that
seem, strictly speaking, scarcely within his
province. In that campaign under the
Minister of Marine, Lord Melville, in front
of the batteries (de cuisine) of Ducayla, he
must have gleaned many curious things
bearing on the æsthetics of his calling.
There is high art in the kitchen; and there
may be in those humble regions inglorious
Ruskins ready with their Seven Lamps and
even pre-Carêmite theory. Who shall tell?
Our chief is perhaps greater in the parlour
than in his own domain. It is expected, he
thinks, that he should give a word of advice
as to the decoration and arrangement of
these chambers. A most difficult task, as it
must be conceded. Every one settles such
matters according to his taste, or perhaps
his means. To begin with: not a single
picture on the walls—not so much as an
engraving. For what reason ? Surely——
" Because," breaks in Monsieur Gogué, with
much heat, "because guests are not to be
disturbed from the one principal object for