known as orange-flower pomatum. This,
chopped up fine and put into rectified spirit,
makes extrait de fleur d'orange, which Mr.
Piesse says cannot, with closed eyes, be
distinguished from the original, and which is
one of the most valuable bases to the
perfumer—passing, with slight modifications,
for sweet-pea, magnolia, and scents of that
class. Orange-flowers distilled with water
give the otto known as oil of neroli;
when procured from the flowers of the
Citrus aurantium, called neroli petale; when
from the flowers of the Ditrus bigaradia, or
Seville orange, called neroli bigarade, and
ranked of second quality. The petit grain, a
quite different odour, is extracted from the
leaves and the young, unripe fruit of various
species of citrons, and is used for scenting
soaps. The neroli petale and bigarade help to
form Hungary-water and eau de Cologne. The
water which was used in distilling the oil of
neroli, when freed from oil, is imported as
eau de fleur d'orange, a cheap and fragrant
cosmetic of three qualities. The first is made
from the distilled flowers; the second, of the
water used in distilling the oil of neroli;
and the third from the leaves, stems, and
young, unripe fruit of every kind of orange-
tree. They are easily tested; the first
turning rose-colour under a few drops of
sulphuric acid; the second turning rose-colour,
too, when quite fresh; but, after a short time
this chemical result and the aroma both
disappear; the third does not change its colour
at all under sulphuric acid, and smells more
of lemon than of orange. The orange flowers
are grown at Cannes for pomade, and at Nice
for distillation.

Cassie is another valuable agent in the
perfumer's répertoire, though not so
extensively used as it might be, since it grows
exclusively at Cannes, belonging neither to
Nice nor to Grasse. Cassie and cassia are
often confounded together; but they are
totally different. Cassia is made from the
outer bark of the Laurus cassia, is not unlike
cinnamon in odour, being aromatic and spicy
rather than flowery, and is principally used
in military soap. Cassie is procured by
maceration from the Acacia farnesiana. It is
to be found in most of the best handkerchief
bouquets, but alone is sickly-sweet, and of an
intense violet odour. Allspice, called also
pimento, is got by distilling the dried, unripe
fruit of Eugenia pimenta and Myrtus pimenta;
it also is chiefly used for scenting soap, on
account of its supposed medicinal qualities.
Who does not know the magic virtues
attributed to almond-paste? But the largest
amount of the almond perfume of commerce
comes from distilled laurel leaves and the
kernels of stone-fruit; also from the skin of bitter
almonds. The essential oil of almonds is got
from the nut itself; first pressed into a cake,
then moistened with salt and water; from the
fermentation of this is produced the
amygdalin and emulsine contained in the almonds.
Laurel leaves and other analogous substances
give the same results under the like treatment.
Fourteen pounds of this almond-cake
yield one ounce of essential oil, which then
must be diluted with spirit to become
pleasant: the concentrated essence being too
powerful to be tolerable. It is much used in
soap, cold cream, &c., being esteemed as a good
cosmetic. Miribane, is imitated oil of almonds;
made from benzole (a product of tar oil), and
patented by Mr. Mansfield of Weybridge.
This miribane was used for perfuming soap;
but it did not succeed; and, after a short
time, the licence was withdrawn: since when
miribane, or chemically speaking, nitro-
benzole, has not been applied to any of the
general uses of perfumery.

Bergamot, again, is one of the indispensable
agents in a perfumatory. Obtained by
expression from the rind of Citrus bergamia, it
forms the basis of most bouquets. In the
celebrated Ess bouquet it is a leading
element, though well covered by orris and
other ingredients. It is best preserved in
closely stoppered bottles, kept cool and dark;
which remark applies to all perfumes,
excepting rose. The honey soap, which made
so many believe in the advent of a cosmetic
specific, is but fine yellow soap mixed with
citronella; and citronella comes from the
distilled leaves of the Andropogon schœnonthus,
a weed ranking wild in Ceylon. Dill
water, sacred to nurseries, when mixed
with rose-water makes likewise a good
cosmetic; the oil of dill also perfumes soap.
Cloves perfume soap, as well as aid in
forming bouquets. Rondeletia (the Guards'
Bouquet), owe their peculiar odour, in chief
part, to the oil of cloves they contain.
Indeed many of our most valuable culinary
spices, are also valuable perfumatory
ingredients; mace (for soaps and sachets);
nutmeg (otto of nutmeg is one of the principal
ingredients in all the frangipanni series);
cinnamon; carraway seeds for soaps and
sachets; dried fennel herbs; vanilla; lemon;
marjoram—forming origeat oil, used for
Tablet Monstre Soap, and by French soap-
makers generally; rue, rosemary, mint, and
sage; all these serve double duty, one in the
kitchen, and one in the still-room, of the
olden times—in the perfumatory of the
modern. Besides other herbs which we have
not space to enumerate.

Some of our sweetest flowers are not
available. Eglantine and sweet-briar can
only be imitated; the perfume being
destroyed under any process possible.
Spirituous extract of rose pomade, of cassie, and
of fleur d'orange, esprit de rose, verbina, and
neroli oils, are the ingredients which very
fairly imitate the eglantine of the summer-
hedges. Lily of the valley, is another
unextracted, but imitated odour—extract of
tuberose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, vanilla, cassie,
and rose, with otto of almonds, making up
the masque of this sweetest perfume. Lilies