are found to be too powerful, and are not
used, though Mr. Piesse says, they might well
be brought into combination with other
odours: as indeed seems patent, even to the
ignorant. Wall-flower is not used, but it is
imitated; that most delicious fragrance of
the clove pink also is only imitated; sweetpea
again, is made out of tuberose, fleur
d'orange, rose pomade, vanilla, but of real
sweet pea there is none; myrtle is rarely
genuine, and magnolia is too expensive to
be genuine; but both are imitated, not
unaptly; heliotrope and honey-suckle come
under the same category, but Mr. Piesse
gives instructions for pomade and extract of
heliotrope which we trust will be carried into
practice. No perfume would have a greater
success than genuine heliotrope, judging by
the universal love accorded to the flower.
Mignonette alone does not give a useful
essence. It wants violet, or extract of tolu,
to bring it up to market odour. M. March
of Nice, has a spécialité for essence of
mignonette; but it does not answer on the whole,
as a trade perfume. Essence of pine-apple is
butyrate of ethyloxide diluted with alcohol;
apple-oil is valerianate of amyloxide; and an
alcoholic collection of acetate of amyloxide
gives the fragrance of pears, which few
people could distinguish from the real odour.
But these are confectioners' secrets, rather
than perfumers'.

Scents are not only imitated; they are
adulterated. Thus, the leaves of the
Geranium odoratissimum—the sweet, rosy-
smelling geranium—are used to adulterate the
otto of roses sent out from France. And
this geranium, in its turn, is adulterated
with ginger-grass oil—andropogon—which
makes a profitable kind of cheatery; seeing
that real geranium fetches about twelve
shillings the ounce, while ginger-grass oil is
worth the same amount the pound. Syringa
makes orange pomatum; and pure violet
essence is scarcely to be had. It is to be had,
but only at special places, and at an exorbitant
price. Cassie, esprit de rose, tincture of
orris, tuberose, and otto of almonds, make up
three-fourths of the essence of violet bought
by the unwary. It reads strangely, this
adulteration of flower-scents! It is a sad adoption
into the perfumatory of the tricks of the trade
current in less beautiful manufactures.

Of all extracts, jasmine is one of the most
delicious. A fine sample of six ounces, in
the Tunisian department of the Crystal
Palace, was worth nine pounds the ounce.
The odour is obtained by enfleurage; as,
indeed, how should any other process be
employed for a flower so sweet, so fair, so
pure? Tuberose, the sweetest flower for
scent that blows, is another of the luscious
extracts obtained by enfleurage; but needing
to be fixed by a less volatile essence. Tuberose
alone flies at once; but fixed by vanilla,
or some other strong and enduring scent, it
is one of the most valuable of the whole list,
entering largely into the composition of
almost all the most fragrant and popular
bouquets. As to these fixing scents— storax,
benzoin and tolu, musk, vanilla, ambergris,
orris, and vitivert (kus-kus) are the principal
ones used; orris especially in the Jockey
Club bouquet: in all fashionable dentifrices—
in the famous odonto above all—and the rest
in their degree in very nearly every
composition known. Less pure in scent, but more
potent and more enduring than jasmine or
tuberose, the leaves and stem of that Eastern
herb, patchouli, are also of invaluable service
to the perfumer. Indeed, we cannot understand
how Bond Street got on at all in the
days when patchouli was not. We all
remember the rage there was for this scent a
short time ago; and how the whole world
was delighted with patchouli in essence and
patchouli in powder, patchouli sachets and
patchouli bouquets, till one grew almost to
loathe the very name of the sweet scent;
which, when well disguised and well
accompanied, gives such delicious results. The
peculiar scent of Chinese and Indian ink is
owing to patchouli and camphor; and the
test of the real Indian shawl used to be this
strange odour, which had not then found its
way into the Western world. The shawl
could be imitated, but not the perfume; so
that all knowing purchasers of true
Cashmeres judged by the sense of smell as well as
by those of touch and sight. And they could
not be deceived in this. Now, with patchouli
in the market, and with such splendid fabrics
in our looms, who is to know the true
Cashmere of the Indies from the spurious Cashmere
of Paisley or Glasgow? Vitivert, or kus-
kus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, is
another importation, which leaves us in
doubt as to how the perfuming world existed
without it. The famous Mousseline des
Indes, which made Delcroix's fortune, was
chiefly extract of vitivert; and the Maréchall
Bouquet and the Bouquet du Roi owe their
characteristic scents to this plant also.

We have spoken of otto of roses, which
comes principally from the East. But there
is a very sweet, if somewhat peculiar, otto of
roses, made of the Provence rose, grown at
Cannes and Grasse; the peculiarity of the
odour arising, it is said, from bees carrying
the pollen of the orange flowers to the rose-
beds. The perfume is obtained by maceration
and enfleurage. When the powder, chopped
fine, is dropped into rectified spirit, it is called
esprit de rose. Rose-water is made at Mitcham
in Surrey; but not to any great excellence;
lavender and peppermint—the last-named
herb, by-the-bye, is the basis of the
celebrated Eau botot—holding supremacy there.
Peppermint is dearer and more prized,
because less cultivated, abroad, than here in
England. It is the mouth-wash of the
continent generally. Speaking of herbs,
rosemary is largely used in eau de Cologne and
in Hungary water; and sassafras, in a weak